The Tasty Pilgrim

So I had a happy day in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. I am going to write a great story on the fabulous restaurant in the Parador, but that will come later. As I did not want to use the menu twice in the Parador I went out in the evening for a simple Menu Pelegrino. Stepped inside the place I had the others directed to. They really enjoyed the meal there. I sat alone at a table but soon a Gereman came to join me. He is from the south of Germany from Bayern and very religious. In his opinion the Pope should ban the chicken from the Cathedral. He had walked the Way two years ago and wanted to back to the past. But that is impossible. First time you are here, every day is miraculous. Second time you walk it, the adventure seems to have vanished. One very disappointed pilgrim then. He is now marching 40 kilometers a day to get there in 22 days. I changed the subject into hunting and shooting and fishing and we had an interesting conversation. Bayern is known for its wild life. The rooster crowed yesterday in the Cathredral and it would bring me luck. Well the door of the cafeteria opened and Lips came in and sat with us. She is now with a large gathering of Scandinavians in the refugio. Unfortunately she has considerable pains in both feet and will continue by bus to Burgos. Her friend is a nurse and also has severe problems with her legs. Many, many pilgrims have those problems. It is because of the bad weather and the mud. Anyway I had Lentil soup, great ! Just great ! Then I had a thin slice of steak followed by ice-cream. And as always there is red wine and the bottle of water.  It had been an interesting evening and when I got back to my room I took another hot bath and slept like a log.  Next day I went down for breakfast. There were six islands in the hall laden with yummy things. One whole island with all sorts of fruit another one with ham and sausages and small pans with rice and ham strips and ...... Fresh bread to accompany it all. I just took my times to have good hearty breakfast. Time to pack my backpack again. Astonishing how much you can press everything into it. They had washed my clothes and it felt good to put clean trousers on and a shirt and socks. Said good-bye to the reception desk and walked to the bus station.

The bus to Burgos would leave just after 11 in the morning. It was still wet, wet, wet and the next stage of the Camino has the warning do not walk in rain or mist. Then Lips and her Danish friend turned up and we had a nice chat to kill time. Buses are cheap here in Spain. For two Euro you cover a long distance to Burgos. In Burgos I asked for the bus to Leon and it would leave about 4 in the afternoon. Last year I stayed in Burgos for two dfays and saw all the sights. So I walked into the old town and had a meal, as it was half past one. A tuna salad followed by spicy meatballs and ice cream and a coke. Walked back to the Cathedral and sat down. A couple also sat down and started a conversation. They also would like to assist in a refugio some day. Both of them have worked in hospitals and are now pensioned off. With their caravan they travel Spain and enjoy all the infomation on the Camino. In the past they had a charity going on for orphanages in Poland. Wonderful things I heard ! The world is full of impressive people. Hopped on the bus to Leon and admired the marvellous system of motorways they have constructed in Spain. When Spain entered the Common European Market the country understood that first and foremost the infrastructure should be built up. Then tourists would come and the economy gets a boost, people find jobs etc. etc. Against seven I arrived in Leon, another beautiful ancient city. The two refugios were full so I went to the small hotel where I stayed last year and got a room.

Tomorrow I will take the bus to the city of Astorga. From there I will walk in one day to Rabanal del Camino to start working there. Up till now it has been an amazing venture for me and I tell everyone to come to Rabanal. Some positive advertising is always good for business. On the Way I have been thinking of a businessplan and a mission to get Rabanal more in the picture. It started in the 1970s and " times they are achanging" as Bob Dylan has it. Always good to give it a thought in a new era, especially since it is a Holy Year. I am going to find me a Menu Pelegrino now and admire the Cathdral of Leon.