The Tasty Pilgrim

This morning I woke up at six thirty. What a difference, with so many hours of sleep, I felt fresh as a daisy.

Got a bath and a shave and dressed and went down for breakfast. So good to put on clean clothes !!!!!!! I smell nicely for as change. At breakfast I saw a Dutch couple that I had talked to at dinner last night. They have been living now in France for over a decade in the Bordeaux area. They go to Spain to find nice wines.

The Bordeaux wines are mediocre today, but France still asks silly pricese in their opinion. We had a very interersting conversation about living abroad permanently. After breakfast I decided to write a story for my weblog first. It irritates me that I am behind. The Saint rewarded me, as when I walked out the sun came through. Maxima from the reception desk wished me a Buen Camino. So good to have the sun in the sky, although there were a few clouds. It was 7 degrees and no wind. Great for a long walk ! From Viana the road takes me to Logrono where I entered the Rioja area. Logrono is the centre of the Rioja wine region and in autumn auctions are held here. As I am late, I do not see many pilgrims on the road. I drank water regularly and the feet felt o.k. Just before Logrono there is a nature reserve, a beautiful lake with an incredible amount of birds. I walked on in the direction of the city and passed a famous hovel beside the road. A very old lady invites pilgrims inside for a cup of coffee. She is one of the famous attractions along the Camino. Everyone stops there to get a stamp in his credential. You can leave a donativo, which of course everyone does. The richest widow in the whole of Northern Spain, certainly. When young she had a vision of an angel, telling her to welcome pilgrims. She has been doing this now for many, many decades. Her home is perfectly situated, as it is still a long way to the city. After taking some photos, I went on. In Logrono you cross the river Ebro and enter the ancient part of the city. So many centuries old buildings to marvel at !

Took a series of photos of the Cathredral. At last I came to the new part of the town. Here I stopped at cafe´ Royal and had a cafee con leche. On the counter were all sorts of bocadillos and I chose two of them.

Only now I found that I was starving ! After another coffee I really felt revived !!!!! And the toilets are clean here ! Time to push on and cross the town that lies sprawled over a huge area. Walking through a wonderful park I at last arrived at an artificial lake. Here the whole town goes to in the week-ends for recreation.

Past the lake there is a pavillion where I sat down. Here I had a coca cola, I know it gives an enormous boost when you are tired. From the breakfast table I had taken an orange and ate it at leasure. Such simple things that make you feel good. But then it started to drizzle again and I walked on to Navarette. Sometimes I sang to myself. The path was paved, so not muddy really. At one point there is a fence next to the path and pilgrims have created crosses in it with wild plants and flowers. I picked up some flowering heather and created my own small cross. At last I arrived at the place of destination. The refugio was almost full, but I could sleep in the attic, the hospitalero said. No toilet and no shower ! Do I relieve myself in the corner or what, I asked ? The gentleman was very sympathetic and told me to ring the bell of a small hostal some twenty meters further on the street. There I got a room for myself with a clean toilet and shower. Great to throw your bacpack down, take off your shoes and just sit for a bit on the bed. After a long shower I found a bar with a small beer and internet. The only place with internet it turned out. Talked to a guy from Colorado, who lives and works in South American States. We will share a meal this evening.